Sunday

The Athenian Riviera


Sandy, clean, organized beaches; suburbs nestled in trees; malls; funky clubs and restaurants; piers and ports; sports clubs; historical and natural sites -the are plenty of reasons why locals, tourists, and demanding travellers alike are re-discovering the «Athenian Riviera»

After half century, the Attica coastline, from Piraeus to Sounion, is once again dubbed the «Athenian Riviera»

Athens, summer of 1960. Newspapers of the time note that «the hot weather is pushing Athenians toward the Saronicos coast for a dip». Vouliagmeni beach «accommodates those in search of luxury, and Varkiza beach though not organized, covered by golden sand and is accessible to the masses, especially after the completion of Sounion Avenue».

Piraeus residents favor Paraskeva beach, Kastella, whilst the Athenian elite prefers «musical» weekends at «Asteria», Glyfada. Before the end of August, late Prime Minister Constantinos Karamanlis, minister Constantinos Tsatsos, among other dignitaries, inaugurate the Vouliagmeni beach, as part of a bigger plan to develop the greater Megalo Kavouri area. Part of the same plan are the 76 bungalows and a hotel of 150 beds designed by K. Boutsinas, at the Lemos area. It is the summer that Maria Kallas sings «Norma» for the first time in Epidaurus; Elizabeth Taylor and Eddie Fisher enjoy a cruise in the Aegean; international artists, tycoons, and stars visit Athens on private yachts.

The question «does Greece need luxury tourism?», led to the decision to build 82 landing docks and re-fuelling points for private boats. The booming of the Athenian coast, coinciding with the birth of «Astir Palace», was finally becoming a reality.

Today, at the «heavy duty» tourism conferences, it is generally recognized that the Athens Olympics have brought yet another change to the greater area: the whole coastline, from Neo Faliro to Glyfada, has been restructured. Public areas, parks, beaches, and playing fields have been re-built. The all-time favorite «coastal avenue», the Athenians’ summer hot-spot- has been upgraded.

The former international airport of Hellenicon has been transformed into a metropolitan park. The new tram line connects the city center with the heart of the commercial district and the malls of Glyfada. With its new infrastructure, clean beaches, and mediterranean climate, Attica, is now «on the map» as a tourist destination. The Attica coastline, from Piraeus to Sounion, is once again dubbed the «Athenian Riviera». After half a century, the «Asteria» (stars) of Athens twinkle again.

Attica shoreline: A pilgrimage
Piraeus, the largest port of Greece and an urban center, has been inhabited si nee the Neolithic era. In the beginning of the 5th century BC, port to the city-state of Athens, Piraeus was connected to the city by the Long Wall. It developed into a politically powerful, trading, and economical center, and a hub for the production of hand-crafted items. Traces of the ancient fortress remain in Zea, Freatida, and along the Piraeus coastline. After 1850, and especially after 1922, when Piraeus received the largest portion of the refugees from Asia Minor, the city developed rapidly.

Take a stroll in the streets and the squares of Piraeus. Visit the tomb of Themistocles, leader of the Athenian army during the Persian Wars, in Freatida and the beautiful neoclassical building of the Municipal Theater, which houses the Museum of Setting Design by Panos Aravatinos. The Public Gallery, featuring works by Lytras, Vyzantios, Axelos, and Volanakis, the Maritime Museum, and Battleship Averof in Trocadero, are also worth a visit. Climb up the hill of Prophet Elias, and enjoy the stunning view from Veakeion. Take a walk in Zea (a.k.a. Passalimani), the most popular promenade in Piraeus.

Cut through the Pavlos Kountouriotis coast and the Votsalakia beach to reach Kastella, to enjoy the magnificent sunset. At that very spot, the Royal family used to swim during the reign of King George I, and wealthy Athenians and Piraeus residents, including merchants, business people, and ship owners used to stay at the country homes designed by architect Chiller. Visit Mikrolimano or Tourkolimano, as some still call it, because the pasha’s harem used to bathe there, during the Ottoman rule in Greece.

Today, this alcove brims with ultramodern sailing boats and yachts. Traditional taverns and minimal restaurants stand next to the historic Yacht Club of Greece. From the Dilaveri coast and its intense high life, cross the small bridge that takes you to the Peace and Friendship Stadium, its newly created parks, playgrounds, and athletic venues. In Faliro, the remaining neoclassical mansions and the promenade flanked with palm trees evoke images of an era when Athenians rode their carriage to the coast to enjoy its «hot springs». Follow the road to Alimos, hometown of ancient historian Thucydides, which features the largest marina in Greece and a beautiful organized beach.

Take a ride on the Coastal Avenue towards Glyfada, making a stop at the Pierides Gallery and another one at the sculpted Theater of Exoni. Continue towards Voula and Vari and visit the archeological site of the 4th century BC cemetery in Gourna. Pass through Vouliagmeni and Varkiza, to come to Lagonissi, Saronida, and Anavyssos, which features natural salt mines and the myth of the «Sunken City», mentioned in Elias Venezis’ novel «Galini».

The road will take you to Cape Sounion. From the top of a rock that plunges into the sea, stands one of the greatest ancient Greek monuments: the temple of Poseidon, ruler of the sea. A strategic and sacred location, the temple was a religious center since the Archaic Period as evidenced by the oversized marble Kouri, male statues found next to the rich merchants and sailors buried in its courtyard. The first temple was completely destroyed by the Persians and was rebuilt in 444 BC, during the «Golden Age» of the Athenian Democracy of Pericles. The new temple was Doric, built in its entirety of white marble from the Agrileza mines.

A magnificent, imposing monument, it has remained almost intact for five centuries. During the early Christian period, the area was deserted and became a place of inspiration for travelers, and the romantic literary figures, who used to carve their names on its pillars, Lord Byron was one of them. Even today, when sailors pass by «Kavo-kolones» (the «cape-columns») turn to pay tribute to the shrine. One night every year, hundreds of Greek and foreign visitors gather to watch a unique, ancient natural «performance»: the August full moon …

Vouliagmeni
Tucked in a green oasis, surrounded by pine-covered hills that plunge into the sea, Vouliagmeni maintains today its original character and is being enriched with gardens, playgrounds, parks, and pedestrian walks. Due to its natural beauty and upgraded infrastructure, Vouliagmeni was selected during the Athens Olympic Games as the grounds for the Triathlon and Bicycle competitions-Individual timing.

Its golden beaches, long, sandy and clean, all carry the blue flag of FEEE. Take a ride from St. Nikolaos Pallon towards Megalo Kavouri, go around Lemos and the bay of central Vouliagmeni, to end up at the small coves below the Limni, at the Faskomilia area.

Oceanis, at Lemos, is an especially popular beach, which was revamped in recent years and now offers a restaurant, bar, and water sports, among other things. It also offers access to the physically disabled. The most fashionable beach in the area is that of the «Astir Palace» complex, featuring golden sand, clean waters, impeccable facilities, and water sports. The adjacent organized beaches, also clean and attractive (A and Β Voula beaches, Varkiza beach, and the public beach at Lagonissi), offer beach bars, water-slides, mini soccer facilities, etc.

There are many sports and water sports schools and facilities in the hotels of the area or the yacht clubs. There are also tennis courts and the Public Sports Center, which offers a modern gymnasium, a soccer field, basketball and volleyball courts.

In the Vouliagmeni area, there is a shopping center and a plethora of hotels, cafes, and restaurants that respond to a wide range of tastes and demands: the beautifully refurbished «Gourmet Club House»; the classic «Grill Room» in «Astir Palace»; the quaint little taverns in Saronida and Lagonissi; the coastal avenue clubs and the romantic, also refurbished «Moorings» that features gourmet cuisine. Finally, the state-of-the-art marina at Lemos can accommodate all types of boats.

The history of the town
The coast of Vouliagmeni was inhabited very early in history. The «Makra Akra», as the Lemos peninsula was called, was one of Attica’s areas, where excavations revealed ruins from the end of the Neolithic era (3,000 BC). At the same area, at Mikro Kavouri and Lemos, excavations revealed proto-Helladic settlements, a priests’ settlement, and ruins of a classical fort.

In 1942, children from the Vouliagmeni orphanage, stumbled upon seemingly insignificant ruins, while playing on the beach. Ultimately, parts of columns, marble pedestals, and a piece of an inscription referring to the ancient temple of Apollo Zostir were discovered. Parts of this very important temple, built at the end of the 6th century BC, columns and the altar dedicated to Leto and her children, Apollo and Artemis, are still there, in «Astir Palace’s» grounds and are, according to urban legend, responsible for the positive energy of the area.

The Vouliagmeni Limni (Lake)
On the coastal avenue, going southwest, where the town of Vouliagmeni ends, there is one of the most impressive natural sites of the Athenian coastline: the lake with the hot springs and the deep secrets that gave the town its name.

Scientists speculate that 2,000 years ago, at the same spot, there was a huge underground cave with hot springs and sensitive limestone rocks. Gradually, the hot springs suffered erosion eating up the rock on the roof of the cave, which sank, creating, due to its difference with the sea-level, the lake.

Research by a team of cave-specialists at the end of the 70’s revealed that the precipice connects with the sea, but they cannot say with certainty at what depth. The lake water comes from the mixture of the seawater with the water of the underground cave through cracks in the limestone walls. It contains a considerable percentage of salt and has healing qualities. Its temperature is between 20 and 27 degrees Celsius, steady year-round, reaching 35 degrees at the deeper areas.

Around the lake, steep cliffs compose a serene and imposing setting. The cliffs’ shadows, reflected in the calm, emerald waters, create a mysterious ambiance. During the Turkish rule, the Lake was called «Karachi» or Black Waters, due to the water’s color.

Today, the Lake features a bar and a hydrotherapy center with fully equipped auxiliary facilities for the visitors. The swimming facilities and hydrotherapy center are open daily, year round, from morning to sunset. The cafeteria is open until late in the evening, in the summer. The area has been declared a natural park, is included in the national catalogue «Natura 2000», and is protected by the international treaty «Ramsar».

More secluded spots
On the way to Lemos, there is trail after the marina on the right, that leads to a rocky coast and the chapel of St. Nikolaos. The chapel was built out of pebbles, in a natura grotto, by a local sailor, who maintained it up until recently. The municipality of Vouliagmeni is responsible for it now.

At the entrance from Papanastassiou hill, across the Athletic High School of Kavouri, a narrow street leads to the LOK monument at the top, dedicated to those who sacrificed their lives during World War II. The panoramic view of Vouliagmeni, and the whole of the «Athenian Riviera» and the Saronic Gulf from the top is breathtaking.

thxs grhomeboy

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